Xi Wu, Yanqing Wei, Hang Yin +3cs.LG cs.AI physics.geo-ph
The prediction of equilibrium beach profiles under tidal influence is of fundamental importance for sustainable coastal development, informing shoreline protection strategies and managing coastal ecosystems under changing environmental conditions. However, it remains challenging due to the highly nonlinear interactions among wave, tide, and sedimentary processes. Traditional empirical and numerical models often exhibit limited adaptability across diverse coastal environments, with especially pronounced limitations in beach systems where tidal processes are important . To improve data-driven prediction under these conditions, this study proposes MorphoGP, a unified category-specific Gaussian process framework for predicting equilibrium beach profiles (EBPs) under tidal influence. The framework first introduces a ContourCluster model based on contrastive learning to classify tide-influenced beach morphologies automatically. Within each morphological category, a specialized Gaussian process expert learns statistical associations between environmental descriptors including waves, tides, and sediments and the beach profile's shape. A Gating Net then integrates the outputs of all experts through a probabilistic weighting mechanism to produce the final prediction. Evaluated on data from over 180 beach profiles from tide-influenced coasts along the Chinese coast, MorphoGP achieves improved predictive performance compared with conventional and deep learning models, reducing the test RMSE by about 59.3\% compared with the best baseline and achieving a final RMSE of 0.297 m. The proposed framework provides a physically informed, data-driven tool for equilibrium beach-profile prediction under tidal influence and coastal management, while stronger process-level physical coupling remains an important direction for future development.
High deployment cost, poor spatial coverage and susceptibility to storm conditions are all challenges faced by traditional in-situ methods. This paper presents a video-based and high performance computing (HPC) enabled deep learning framework for joint sensor free estimation of five coastal wave parameters, namely significant wave height (Hs), maximum wave height (Hmax), peak period (Tp), zero upcrossing period (Tz) and wave direction (theta) from monocular coastal video. The proposed architecture comprises of a V-JEPA (self supervised) ViT Small backbone for robust spatiotemporal feature extraction in visually challenging scenarios, a dual-stream SlowFast temporal encoder for broad bandwidth representation of wave motion in both hydrodynamic breaking and swell regimes, an optical flow stream based on Farneback optical flow algorithm for adding saliency information to the structure with emphasis on hydrodynamically active wavelength bands of waves, and a multi-task regression layer with dispersion constraints (Airy wave dispersion lambda_p = 0.1). The model was trained on an NVIDIA DGX A100 cluster and was early stopped at epoch 31 and achieved Pearson correlation coefficients of 0.451, 0.578, 0.643, 0.680 and 0.832 for Hs, Hmax, Tp, Tz and wave direction respectively, with generalization ability to geographically diverse held out test data sites. While operating in a data-limited regime (6 annotated training scenes), the framework demonstrates statistically significant temporal correlations (PCC of 0.451 to 0.832), confirming proof of concept feasibility; R2 values (max 0.246) indicate that variance capture will improve with larger annotated datasets.